Hi ZhivagosGirl,
I'm grateful for the research you are doing and I'm also happy that you are getting such good answers so quickly
It's also nice to see manufacturers that are so responsive and open about their materials (which is why I like smaller manufacturers or better outlets in general because the odds are better that you can get better information about their mattresses).
Quick reply for the only answer I know off the top of my head. The range of prices is because Dreamline is a wholesaler, and the range represents the prices across the 3 places in central AR that carry their mattresses. And yes - the prices are for a King.
That makes perfect sense and also means that the lower price would be the most appropriate "value" price to use in comparisons.
Some general comments so that you can "fit" the information you are getting into the mix of materials in each mattress.
La Grande 3
What material is used in the quilting Dreamsoft fiber quilting is is a fiber polyester blend along with polyurethane foam (1.2 density I'm guessing)
Polyester fiber - This is a synthetic fiber which like all fibers will compress over time. It is used because it provides a soft quilting layer in a mattress which has a nice feel but or course is a synthetic materials and is not the same quality (or price) as a natural fiber like wool and will break down more quickly. I usually include it in the layers which may have "issues" over time because of softening, breakdown, or degradation all of which can change the feel of a mattress.
1.2 lb polyurethane foam - This is a low grade polyfoam which is generally used in quilting because it can be made very soft and is also very inexpensive. It is subject to softening and premature breakdown more quickly than higher density polyfoams (which can also be made very soft but are more expensive). This is the type of foam that I try to make sure is in total layers of around an inch (perhaps a slight bit more) or less. If it is only in thin layers ... then its softening will have less overall effect on the mattress. Thicker layers I would avoid completely (whether in the quilting or in the comfort layers).
What is the thickness and type of latex ½” and natural Talalay latex
Talalay latex is a great material but this is a very thin layer which will have much less effect on the mattress itself than a thicker layer.
What is the density of the 5/8 polyfoam 1.2 density
Again ,... this is low density foam and the thickness should be added to any other low density foams or materials with possible "issues" in the upper layers (most subject to softening and wear) in order to evaluate the overall quality of the mattress.
Can you explain to me about the coils... This is a coil on coil mattress so there are 936 total coils in a King, 13.5 gauge and the mattress can be flipped.
This is a somewhat unusual construction with basically two innerspring support layers used in the same mattress with an insulator in between them. It would create a more giving support layer than a single innerspring but it wouldn'g compress twice as much (which a double spring would normally do) because of the modifying insulator in between them. In effect this is two lower coil count and firmer gauge innersprings added to each other to create a specific feel and performance. "Coil on coil" can have different meanings used by different manufacturers which include innersprings on boxsprings (which have coils), two sets of innersprings in a single mattress (as in this case), or an innerspring in the support layers combined with a type of innerspring called a microcoil that is used in the comfort layers of a mattress. All of these are often described as "coil on coil" even though they are very different.
Winter Retreat
Same material comments except for ...
the thickness and the density of the convoluted foam. 2 ½” 1.8 density
This is getting into the better range of polyfoam that is used in the upper layers. An eggcrate is a way to make a firmer foam softer in the "convoluted" part (less material to compress) but still firmer in the non convoluted base. This gives the foam more softness with initial compression and more firmness with deeper compression (which can simulate the qualities of higher density foam which does this without the convoluting). The disadvantage of convoluting is there is less material which means more wear and tear with compression and less durability. It is also lower cost because two layers can be made from one solid layer of the same material. The advantage of higher density foam is that it is more durable. Firmer foam can also be more durable because it will be less subject to the same degree of mechanical compression.
Latex Supreme
-What is the type of latex? Talalay…made in USA
-What is the cover made of? Stretch knit cotton/poly blend
Made in the USA talalay would mean it is from Latex International which is one of two talalay latex manufacturers that makes high quality Talalay that is used in North America (the other is Radium).
Stretch knit cotton/poly blend - Stretch knits are much more stretchy than woven materials and conform better to the softer layers underneath them. Polyester in the blend is less expensive than higher quality natural fiber fabrics (or "artificial" fabrics like bamboo rayon) and less breathable.
The Dream
Same comments as previous materials.
Still trying to get the actual compression numbers (rating?) for the 1.2 and 1.8 polyfoams, and clarification on the poly in the quilting but I think I got everything else.
The compression numbers would not be "quality" issues and in the case of convoluted foams would be "distorted" because the ILD nd performance of the layer will be as affected by the convoluting (which has manydifferent patterns) than the ILD itself. The ILD of thin 1.2 lb quilting foam can be assumed to be very soft (you will see terms like hypersoft or supersoft) and they can all be assumed to have a very low ILD which would be "suitable" for the hand feel they are trying to achieve. I generally don't make an issue out of the ILD of quilting layers or convoluted layers because personal testing will tell me much more than the ILD numbers.
So this should give you what you need to decide if a mattress is really worth considering or where it may "rank" in your choices. Overall I look for the thinnest possible layers that could be "problems" or that could be the "weak link" of the mattress. The less "problems" or "possible weak links" the happier I am and the more inclined I would be to look seriously at the mattress ... and of course the lower the budget the more you can expect less expensive materials in the mattress.
I'll make some comments about your last post in my next reply.
Phoenix