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- KISS Bed Frame (Keep it simple, keep it stupid)
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KISS Bed Frame (Keep it simple, keep it stupid)
First off... I have no wood-working experience. I made my cuts as close as possible (not perfect) and eyeballed everything (no level or square used)... and it turned out perfectly fine. I think this design is fairly forgiving… and it’s sitting on carpet… so that helps too. My final results yielded a great looking (to me), solid frame, which holds 400 lbs of people easily… please use common sense, I am def. not qualified to provide advice on structural safety, so use this design at your own risk.
Second off... this is not really my design... I took elements from several different builds... and just combined the laziest/simplest possible way I could think to do it.
Total Material cost = $95.00 (Home Depot)
Equipment needed = Tape measure, Decent Power Drill (probably best if it's plugged one, required lot of drilling), 3/8 drill bit, 2-crescent wrenches (used to tighten bolts)
Optional Equipment needed = clamps would make it easier, however another set of hands also works fine, some type of saw to cut the wood down to size (home depot/lowes will do this for free for you, if you go in with your measurements)
HERE COMES THE MATH:
Figure out exactly what size frame you need. I got a king size 10’ Tuff & Needle, so I knew I wanted an 80 inch by 76 inch frame (standard king size). If I was building it for a queen size, I’d probably cut out one of the middle supports. Use common sense.
(C) should always be your desired length (80’ in my case)
(D) should always be your desired width MINUS 3 inches (1.5 x2), that (C) already covers for you (assuming your 2x4 is really 3.5x1.5 like most are) (73’ in my case)
(E) should always be same length as (C) MINUS 3 inches (1.5 x2), that (D) already covers for you. (77’ in my case)
My suggestion is to look at design schematic + pictures… and make sure you fully understand why the math makes sense.
Other misc. notes: Use screws on the supply list to attach L-bracket and slats (1 will do). I used a 3 inch spacing between slats, but you can go smaller if you want (do not suggest going bigger)
Thanks for taking the time to share your design and the pictures ... I appreciate it
I've added a link to your topic to the foundation post so that others can see it and use it as well.
I like that your instructions are also very clear and simple ... nice job!
Hi thethrowdown, nice job. It is a simple design, and the instructions look really clear. Also looks like you used bolts to attach the side rails to the legs. That's a much safer way to do it. I've seen lots of homebuilt designs that opt to just use plain screws there instead of the bolts and unfortunately screws strength is in pull out resistance, not shear resistance (unless they're timberlok's which is a whole different ball of wax). Screws are usually brittle and tend to snap off in that scenario, so good call on the bolts. Good job.
Hey thethrowdown! This is spectacular! I was thinking the same thing that brass was saying about the bolts. Appreciate you taking the time to map everything out for the fine people in this forum. Might think about trying this sooner than later.
This was awesome. I got so excited seeing this write up yesterday, that I went out to Lowes and bought the materials and built the bed...all after 2pm! I should have re-read your comment about a Queen bed only needing one middle frame reinforcement. I put two in, and it is definitely overkill, but I guess a family full of elephants could lay on this frame/platform without worry. Can't wait for the memory foam mattress to come in so that the guest room will have a comfy bed.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. This is far superior quality construction and a much lower price than most everything else on the market. Once stained or painted and then hidden under a bed skirt, hardly anyone will know it's a quick DIY job (not that I care anyway).
This really is so easy and sturdy. Thank you thethrowdown!
I made a couple of cosmetic changes to this frame set up that I want to share. Just a note that these cosmetic tweaks do not change the math for the boards, but you can use shorter bolts for the legs of the bed. These changes will make the legs completely flush. First, cut out two slats on each of your 4x4 legs. The 2x4s sides of the frame should fit right on the slats so that they are flush with the 4x4. Next to make the bolts flush, after you drill your hole for the bolts, use a 1-inch paddle drill bit to drill an insert that the head of the bolt and the washer will sit inside. I did this and it looks great, nice and flush!
Thanks for sharing the details of your revised design ... I appreciate it
Just posting to warn anyone who thinks this is a great option for people without things like power saws... well, Home Depot and Lowe's may not be able to cut the wood for you. At least the 4x4 post. It was too big for the machine at Lowe's. And Home Depot's lumber selection was CRAP so I didn't even try there.
Also the guy assigned to the wood cutter acted like I'd ruined his week by coming up with all that wood to cut. I think they're used to doing a piece or two for customers, not 20.
So if you're going to do this you may have to go to a lumber yard or something. I'm just giving up at this point,. I gave it the good old college try, lol. Wasted over an hour at Lowe's selecting choice pieces of wood.
Thanks for your comments.
I’m not sure how common it is for people to expect a home improvement store to cut all of their lumber for them, but it’s good to bring up that Lowe’s generally has a policy of 2 free cuts. You may have better luck with a local hardware store or lumber yard, for both the number of free cuts (or for a small fee) and the ability to cut larger pieces of wood.