- Mattress Forum
- Mattress Forum
- General Mattresses Questions
- Mattress durability guidelines ... how long will a mattress last
The first place to start your research is the Mattress Shopping Tutorial linked in the top right corner.
Select the Search Forum tab above to gain access to answers to many mattress related questions.
Select the Ask An Expert tab above to reach out to any of our Expert Members for guidance and advice.
Mattress durability guidelines ... how long will a mattress last
Mattress durability guidelines ... how long will a mattress last
Mattress durability guidelines... how long will a mattress last
One of the most frequently asked questions when consumers are buying a new mattress is "how long will this mattress last" and even though this is one of the most important parts of the value of a mattress purchase there are very few sources of information that will provide a reliable answer to this question.
When you sleep on a mattress the upper layers will compress and deflect more than the deeper layers or components partly because the upper layers are usually made to be softer than the deeper transition and support layers or components of a mattress (and firmness/softness is also a factor in the durability of a material) and partly because they are closer to the sleeping surface and subject to direct compression without any of the layers above them absorbing some of the compression forces first. It's this constant compression and deflection of the materials and components in the upper layers of a mattress that leads to changes in firmness or thickness which affects comfort, pressure relief, and the ability of the materials and components to support the weight of the body with the spine in its natural alignment.
Most materials and components will become softer as they break down over time (especially under the heavier parts of the body such as the hips/pelvis) while fiber materials will compress and pack down and become firmer and less "fluffy" over time. This is why the durability of the upper comfort and transition layers (the top 3" to 6" of the mattress) are especially important when you are assessing the durability and useful life of the mattress as a whole because they will usually be the weakest link in the mattress in terms of durability and the materials and components that are closer to the bottom of a mattress (the support core of the mattress) won't normally be the weakest link in the mattress.
Durability will also be affected by the body type of the person that sleeps on it because higher body weights (or more specifically a higher BMI) will compress the layers in a mattress more deeply than lighter body types (or a lower BMI) so they will generally need more durable and firmer materials and components in the upper layers than those that are in lower weight ranges for the mattress to maintain its comfort and support for a similar length of time.
There are also many reasons such as health conditions, age, flexibility, or just normal differences between people that some people may be closer to the "princess and the pea" end of the range and are more sensitive to changes in the mattress than those that are closer to the "I can sleep on anything" end of the range that may continue to sleep well on a mattress that more sensitive people would no longer sleep well on and would need to replace.
If a mattress is close to the edge of the comfort/support range that would be too soft for a specific person when it is new then even relatively small changes in firmness may be enough to take them outside of the comfort/support range that would be suitable for them as well and the useful life of the mattress would likely be much less than a mattress that was more in the middle of a suitable comfort/support range for that person (see post #2 here)
It's also important to understand that mattress warrantines have little to nothing to do with durability. Warranties only cover defects in a mattress which are generally defined as visible impressions that are more than a specified amount when there is no weight on the mattress (normally from .75" to 2") and don't cover changes in the firmness of the materials and the loss of comfort and support which is the biggest reason that you will need to replace a mattress.
Mattress reviews will also tell you very little about the durability of a mattress because the vast majority of reviews are written relatively soon after a mattress is purchased and in most cases include little to no information about the body type or sleeping style of the person that purchased it or the materials inside it or the support system underneath it so it's not really possible to know the reasons for any issues they may be having or whether they would apply to anyone else. Outside of actual defects in a mattress (which are relatively uncommon and will generally show up in the first year) durability issues will generally take several years to show up and in many cases the mattress which is being reviewed may no longer be available several years later anyway.
In other words, because of all the many variables involved that can affect how long a mattress will maintain its comfort and support relative to any specific person, the most meaningful definition of durability is:
"Assuming that you sleep well on a mattress when it's new... durability is the length of time you continue to sleep well on a mattress before changes in the materials and components in the mattress caused by changes in firmness or the normal wear and tear or breakdown of the materials over time lead to a loss of comfort and support to the degree that you no longer sleep "well enough" on a mattress and decide to replace it."
While there is no way to specifically quantify or predict how long any mattress will maintain it's comfort and/or support for any particular person for certain or how long it will take before they cross the thresholds between sleeping well on a mattress to sleeping "OK" to tolerating a mattress to finally deciding to replace it because it is no longer suitable or comfortable for them (because this is the only real measure of durability or the useful life of a mattress that really matters) and because there are too many unknowns and variables involved that are unique to each person... if you have confirmed that it meets the minimum quality/durability specifications relative to your BMI that are suggested in these guidelines then it would be reasonable to expect a useful lifetime in the range of 7 - 10 years and with higher quality and more durable materials than the minimum guidelines suggested in this article like latex or higher density memory foam or polyfoam (in the upper layers especially) it would likely be in the higher end of the range or even longer and the chances that you would have additional "bonus time" beyond that would be higher as well.
In order to make a reasonable assessment of the durability of a mattress and bearing in mind that because of all the many variables involved that no set of guidelines will be 100% accurate... and to greatly shift the odds of buying a mattress that will maintain its comfort and support for many years in your favor... this is how to assess the durability and useful life of a mattress based on the materials and components inside it regardless of how long the mattress has been available for sale or the name of the manufacturer on the label.
Calculate your BMI or Body Mass Index. BMI is based on your height and weight and you can use one of many online BMI calculators (such as here) to find out your BMI.
Find out information that you need to know about the materials and components in a mattress you are considering listed in order from the top down or the bottom up so you can make sure they add up to the total thickness of the mattress and nothing is "missing" (see this article which you can print and take to the store). Most retailers or manufacturers that are knowledgeable about mattress materials and components and understand the importance of using more durable materials and components in a mattress will be happy to provide you with this information because it will differentiate their mattresses from the majority of mattresses in the industry that use less durable materials. If for any reason a retailer or manufacturer is either unwilling or unable to provide you with the specific information that you need to identify any lower quality materials or weak links in the mattress then I would assume that it contains lower quality and less durable materials and I would pass the mattress by because in terms of durability it would be risky purchase.
Many mattresses use foam or fiber materials that are quilted to the cover that can soften the "hand feel" or surface feel of the mattress. The quilting process will compress the quilting materials and improve their durability so as long as there are no other lower quality or unknown quality materials in the upper layers of the mattress and the quilting material is "about an inch or so or less" (in practical terms I would use 1.5" as a maximum in a quilting layer) then the quilting layer won't have a meaningful effect on the durability or useful life of the mattress so it's not necessary to find out any additional information other than the type of material and the thickness of the quilting layer.
If there is a lower quality or "unknown quality" material in the upper layers of a mattress other than the quilting layer and there are no other lower quality or unknown quality materials in the upper layers of the mattress (including any quilting layers) then as long as it's only an inch or so or less then it also wouldn't have a meaningful effect on the durability or useful life of the mattress so once again it wouldn't be necessary to find out any additional information other than the type of material and the thickness of the layer.
There are many different names that are used in the industry for the same type of material so here is a list of the most common materials that are used in mattresses so you can identify the type of materials and components in the mattress regardless of the name that any specific manufacturer may use.
Materials and components that can have a significant effect on the durability or useful life of a mattress depending on their quality/density or thickness:
- Polyurethane foam (often called polyfoam)
- Memory foam (or gel memory foam)
- Natural fiber batting (cotton, wool, silk, horse hair)
- Semi synthetic fiber batting (rayon made from bamboo or other cellulosic materials or PLA made from corn starch, tapioca roots, or sugarcane)
- Synthetic fiber batting (generally polyester fibers)
- Firm densified polyester fiber
Materials and components that are all high quality materials that are very unlikely to reduce the durability or useful life of a mattress:
- Latex foam (either Dunlop or Talalay made with natural rubber or synthetic rubber or a combination of both)
- Soft solid gel layers (where the gel isn't mixed inside a foam material)
- Buckling column gel
- Rubberized coir
- Microcoils or mini coils (thinner versions of pocket coils that are used in comfort layers instead of the support core in a mattress)
- Innersprings (Bonnell coils, Offset coils, Continuous coils, or Pocket coils used as the support core of a mattress)
Once you know the type and thickness of all the layers and components in a mattress then you can identify whether the mattress has any lower quality materials or weak links that can compromise the durability and the useful life of the mattress by comparing them to the following guidelines.
If your BMI is less than 30:
Polyurethane foam (often called polyfoam): If your mattress is one sided then I would make sure that the density of any polyfoam is at least 1.8 lb per cubic foot or higher. If the mattress is two sided then I would use a minimum density of 1.5 lbs per cubic foot or higher.
Memory foam (or gel memory foam): If your mattress is one sided then I would make sure that any memory foam is at least 4 lb per cubic foot. If the mattress is two sided then I would use a minimum density of 3 lbs per cubic foot.
Natural, Semi Synthetic, or Synthetic fibers: Fiber materials are usually used as a quilting material in the cover and will tend to pack down and form impressions to some degree over time (although these will also tend to even out as you sleep in different parts of the mattress) so I would tend to make sure that any fiber layers are only "about an inch or so or less" (again in practical terms I would use 1.5") to minimize any impressions in the mattress to a level that won't have a meaningful effect on the comfort and support of the mattress.
Firm densified polyester fiber: This is often used as a foam substitute because it is even less costly than polyfoam (which in turn is less costly than specialty foams such as memory foam or latex) and you will generally find it in low budget mattresses or in institutional mattresses where cost is a more important consideration than durability. I would avoid any mattress that uses more than an an inch of this material in the upper layers but it can sometimes be found as a stabilization layer in the bottom of a mattress under an innerspring support core where it will have much less effect on the durability or useful life of the mattress and would be appropriate as a "cost/durability" compromise" for a mattress that is in a lower budget range.
All the other materials and components on the list: These are all durable materials and components that wouldn't be a weak link that would compromise the durability or useful life of a mattress.
If your BMI is 30 or higher:
Higher BMI ranges will need more durable materials and components in a mattress and in a BMI range of 30 or higher I would include any 1.8 lb polyfoam or 4 lb memory foam as a "lower quality/density" material (relative to a higher BMI only) and minimize their use to a total of "about an inch or so or less" in the mattress.
Polyurethane foam: If your mattress is one sided then I would look for 2.0 lb per cubic foot density or higher. If the mattress is two sided then I would use a minimum density of 1.8 lbs per cubic foot or higher.
Memory foam (or gel memory foam): If your mattress is one sided then I would make sure that any memory foam is at least 5 lb per cubic foot. If the mattress is two sided then I would use a minimum density of 4 lbs per cubic foot.
If your BMI is 20 or lower:
In lower BMI ranges then using slightly lower quality/density and less durable materials can be a little less risky because you won't sink into the mattress as much and lower density foam materials won't be subject to the same degree of compression that cause them to soften and break down as quickly as they would for higher weight ranges. While I would generally use the same guidelines as for a BMI that is less than 30, if you are restricted to lower budget ranges where higher quality materials may not be available (say under $400 or so) and if there is a lower quality/density layer that is deeper in the mattress and has an inch or two of higher quality and more durable materials above it then a slightly lower minimum guideline of 3 lb per cubic foot density for memory foam or 1.5 lb per cubic foot density for polyfoam may be worth considering as a reasonable "cost/durability compromise".
NOTE: I have recently switched to using BMI rather than weight so in many of the previous forum posts where you see "higher weight ranges (more than the lower 200's or so)" I would use a BMI of 30 or more and where you see "average weight ranges (lower 200's or less)" I would use a BMI of less than 30.
Other factors that can affect the durability and useful life of a mattress:
Firmness: Firmer materials will tend to compress less and last longer than softer versions of the same material so if you are choosing between two mattresses that are both a suitable choice in terms of comfort, firmness, and PPP and one of them is slightly firmer than the other and there are no other significant differences between them that would affect durability then I would choose the one that is slightly firmer.
Quilting layers: Foam or fiber that is quilted to a cover will be compressed by the quilting process and would be more durable than the same material that isn't quilted to a cover.
Inner tufting: Inner tufting is a method of construction that secures the layers and components in a mattress together by compressing the mattress and using a cord or tape that goes right through all the layers of a mattress at regular intervals and is secured or anchored on either side with some kind of padded button or felt washer. It pre compresses and holds all the layers and materials together and prevents shifting and gives the product the unique tufted look, will create a firmer mattress, and will greatly increase the durability of a mattress even if it uses materials that would otherwise be a weak link and reduce the durability or useful life of the mattress if they weren't tufted.
Layer position: Deeper layers or components are less subject to compression forces than layers that are closer to the surface so if you need to make any compromises in the quality and durability of the materials in a mattress because of a restricted budget then lower quality and less durable materials that are deeper in the mattress would have less effect on the durability and useful life of a mattress and be less risky than the same layers that are closer to the sleeping surface.
Convoluted layers: Convoluted layers are less durable than a solid layer of the same material so if there are convoluted foam layers in the upper layers of a mattress and the material is also at the minimum density range for your BMI then it could have some effect on the durability and useful life of the mattress and I would lower your expectations slightly. I would also make sure that there isn't more than one convoluted layer. If the convoluted materials are higher quality and more durable than the minimum guidelines for your BMI then it wouldn't be an issue.
One or two sided:Assuming that you flip and rotate it on a regular basis (see post #2 here)... a two sided mattress will be more durable than a one sided mattress that uses the same comfort layers and components on only one side of the mattress. There is also more about the pros and cons of one sided vs two sided mattresses in post #3 here.
Replaceable layers:Some mattresses (most commonly latex mattresses) have individual loose layers and a zip cover where each layer can be removed and replaced. Some local manufacturers will also open up the cover and replace individual layers in a mattress. Because a mattress will normally soften and break down from the top down this can be a benefit in terms of durability because a single layer that has softened before the other layers and components in a mattress (usually the upper layer of a mattress) can be replaced without having to replace the entire mattress. A sleeping system that has a mattress/topper combination would have similar benefits that allows you to replace the topper without replacing the entire mattress.
Insulator over an innerspring: Many innersprings that have a lower coil count and are linked with helical coils (rather than having the coils inside a fabric pocket) will need an insulator above the coils to even out the feel of the innersprings and make sure that the layers above the innerspring don't compress and pocket into the innersprings which can lead to a mattress that feels lumpy. These are usually some type of non woven material such as densified or bonded polyester or cotton fibers or resinated textile clippings or coconut coir or a flexible mesh material and without this layer a mattress will lose it's comfort and support much more quickly as the padding compresses into the coils. Mattresses that use pocket coils with a higher coil count that are surrounded by a fabric don't generally need an insulator (although some may still have one) to prevent the padding materials from pocketing into the coils.
Foam surround: Many innerspring mattresses have an edge support system to create a firmer edge for those that tend to sleep with most of their weight concentrated on the outer few inches of the mattress to prevent roll off, make it easier to get in and out of the mattress, or for those that often sit on the side of their mattress. One of the methods that is commonly used for this is a polyfoam surround which glues a firmer polyfoam layer on the 4 sides and bottom of the innerspring and if you are one of those that sleep on the edge or sit on the side of your mattress on a regular basis then I would use the minimum polyfoam guidelines for your BMI for the foam surround as well.
Long term compression: If the materials or components in a mattress are sourced in Asia or China and are compressed during shipping or storage in a warehouse for more than a few weeks then the durability of the materials would be more uncertain because longer term compression can reduce the durability of the materials or components in the mattress and there would be a higher chance of experiencing durability issues over time (see post #6 here).
While I would want to know the specifics of an innerspring in a mattress to be able to make more apples to apples comparisons between mattresses and I would want to know the thickness of the innerspring so you can add up all the layers and components in a mattress to make sure that they add up to the total thickness of the mattress and confirm that you aren't missing any layers... more detailed information about an innerspring isn't usually that important in terms of durability because innersprings aren't normally the weakest link of a mattress and will generally last longer than the padding layers above the innerspring. For those that want more information about the pros and cons of different types of innersprings for reasons other than durability there is more information about innersprings in this article and in post #10 here.
There are also other variables that can affect the durability and useful life of a material such as the specific chemical formulation of a foam material, the cell structure of the foam, or some other more "arcane" and less significant factors but in practical terms these aren't as relevant or important as the other variables that are discussed in this article which will be enough to make sure that the odds of buying a durable mattress that will last you for many years are very high.
While it's not a durability issue... I would also make sure that the foam materials in your mattress have a reliable safety certification as well so that you can have some confidence that any harmful substances or VOC's are below the testing limits for the certification which for most people would be "safe enough" (see post #2 herefor more information about some of the more reliable "safety" certifications).
It's always more realistic to think of about 10 years as a maximum reasonable expectation for any mattress no matter what the quality or durability of the materials and then treat any additional time after that as "bonus time" because after about 10 years the limiting factor in the useful life of a mattress will often be the changing needs and preferences of the person sleeping on the mattress and even if a mattress is still in relatively good condition after a decade... a mattress that was suitable for someone 10 years earlier may not be the best "match" any longer.
Having said that... if a mattress only uses the highest quality and most durable materials and for people whose needs and preferences or physical condition or body type hasn't changed much over 10 years then "bonus time" or even "extended bonus time" with more durable materials such as latex, higher density memory foam or polyfoam, natural fibers, or other high quality and more durable materials that soften, compress, or break down much more slowly is much more likely and you will find some people who have slept well on some of the most durable mattresses and materials for several decades but these are the much more the exception than the rule.
I love bonnell coils mattresses breathability but I'm concerned about their durability. All I can find is mattresses with an insulating synthetic felt and a foam layer (in Italy at least), like this
How durable is the felt layer? And are there hybrid alternatives without the foam (non Pocket coils)?
If the felt is more durable than the foam layer, I might buy a mattress without the foam layer and add a latex topping, is it a bad idea?
Welcome to the forum!
I love bonnell coils mattresses breathability but I'm concerned about their durability.
There are some very durable Bonnell spring units available. Like any spring unit , it would depend upon such things as the actual design, profile, turns, gauge of steel, tempering and number of springs.
How durable is the felt layer?
This depends upon the thickness, bonding and density of the felt layer. Generally, a felt (insulator) pad is made from resin bonded recycled fabric trimmings for weight balancing, evening out the feel over lower spring counts, minimizing the feel of the coils, and preventing materials from compacting into the innerspring unit.
And are there hybrid alternatives without the foam (non Pocket coils)?
I’m not sure what you’re asking here. A hybrid mattress is meant to describe a mattress using a pocketed spring unit with various foam layers on top, usually polyfoam, memory foam or sometimes latex. I’m not aware of a mattress made using just a Bonnell spring unit and a felt pad on top, although I guess there certainly could be one produced somewhere. Your best bet for something like that would be from a local small mattress manufacturer who could customize an order for you, or form purchasing individual components.
If the felt is more durable than the foam layer, I might buy a mattress without the foam layer and add a latex topping, is it a bad idea
A high quality felt pad can be quite durable, but it ultimately would depend upon the use within a completed sleep system. If you were considering using latex on top of a Bonnell spring unit, a felt pad certainly would be desirable, as you’d want a flatter surface so as to not feel the springs through the latex.
Hello. I have read this and the mattress specs article, but I am still unclear: What are the best measurements to look for when shopping for a latex hybrid mattress? In other words, how thick should the various layers be? Are there any components which should be considered red flags? I am trying to formulate a checklist to rule mattress in/out. Thanks so much.
I am still unclear: What are the best measurements to look for when shopping for a latex hybrid mattress? In other words, how thick should the various layers be? Are there any components which should be considered red flags? I am trying to formulate a checklist to rule mattress in/out.
Regarding the latex in a latex hybrid mattress, as mentioned in the mattress durability guidelines listed at the beginning of this thread, any latex (Dunlop or Talalay – synthetic, blended or natural), would be considered a high quality material and unlikely to reduce the useful life of a hybrid mattress.
Both Dunlop and Talalay have their own unique comfort characteristics, and the differences between them are summarized in post #6 here . The preference of choosing one type over the other would be a personal, and not a quality, choice, and the ability to be able to test something similar in person (if ordering online) would be the best way to determine if you had an affinity for one version of the latex versus another.
Regarding the innerspring support unit, this would most often be some version of a pocketed spring unit in a latex hybrid mattress, and again this usually isn’t the “weak link” within a mattress. Some manufacturers will offer a few different pocketed spring options (often something adding zoning or perhaps a firmer spring unit) that they might recommend for different sleeping posture, BMIs or personal preferences.
The best advice I can provide when you can't test a mattress in person is always a more detailed phone conversation with a knowledgeable and experienced retailer or manufacturer that has your best interests at heart and who can help "talk you through" the specifics of their mattresses and the properties and "feel" of the different latex materials and spring units and the options they have available that may be the best "match" for you based on the information you provide them, any local testing you have done or mattresses you have slept on and liked or other mattresses you are considering that they are familiar with, and the "averages" of other customers that are similar to you. They will know more about "matching" their specific mattress designs, options, and firmness levels to different body types, sleeping positions, and preferences (or to other mattresses that they are familiar with) than anyone else.
As for thickness, the thickness of a mattress is just a side effect of the design and by itself isn't particularly meaningful because whether a thicker or thinner mattress would be better or worse for any particular person will depend on the specifics of the materials (type, firmness, etc.) and on all the other layers in the mattress. Thickness is only one of many specs that are used to make different mattresses that perform and feel differently and that makes a mattress suitable for one person and not another. There is more about the effect of thickness in post #14 here . Regardless of how thick or thin a mattress may be, the most important part of the "value" of a mattress is how suitable it is "as a whole" for your particular body type, sleeping positions, and preferences in terms of PPP (Posture and alignment, Pressure relief, and Personal preferences) regardless of how thick it may be.
I hope that helps makes things a bit easier to understand.
So, if my husband has a BMI that is 34 and he is a back sleeper and my BMI is 19 and I am a side sleeper, I assume I go with materials best for him?
I have been reading for hours and I am still so confused. I do believe I am to the point of overthinking this purchase. However, our current bed situation is so bad and has been for so long I don't want to make the same mistake again!
Something that is suitable for someone petite such as yourself and being a side sleeper generally wouldn't provide enough support for someone of a higher BMI such as your husband, so you may wish to defer to something appropriate for his BMI and then perhaps using a topper on your side of the mattress (if necessary) or perhaps consider a split mattress configuration ( here's a sample from SleepEZ). Defer toward alignment/support first, surface comfort second.
Jeff Scheuer, The Beducator
Mattress To Go
With a really tight budget it's impossible to just "choose another". There's a bit of a necessity to go with something that is within budget even if the company won't expose the specifics of materials used. Because of that I'm wondering if someone could make an educated guess on what the quality of certain mattresses are or how well they'd hold up for someone with >30 BMI.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0771MFY74 (in 10" or 12")
Or if you could recommend other Queen size beds that won't get hot and should hold up well for this BMI within a budget of $400 max I'd appreciate that.
Related to this, are there mattress types that avoid "middle dip" longer than others? My husband and I bought a traditional pillow top / spring mattress about five years ago and picked one that was actually firmer than we liked, specifically because we thought the firmer material would hold up longer over time. It's not been the case though - the mattress now dips in the middle to the point where it causes back pain for one of us (we can rotate the mattress so the worst of the dip is on one side and thus share the pain a bit).
Reading here I see how our thinking was flawed by avoiding the material we liked and thinking firm equates with durable, but I'm worried about how to avoid this "middle dip" again since all our mattresses seem to wear out that way first. Would a split mattress help stave off the "middle dip" problem better? Or are we doomed because we end up cuddling too much in the middle? (I married a living furnace so usually this only happens in winter). My husband is 6'4" and only 150 lbs whereas I am 5'4" and 175, so our BMI's aren't really close either (although the side that has the worst part of the dip was actually his).
I was thinking about a latex or hybrid mattress if we try one out and like it, and also possibly getting a multi layer solution where we can swap the top layer as described above, that sounds lovely. Thank you for this thread of ideas!
I've contacted a handful of companies regarding mattresses. They're all "budget companies". Some companies didn't really reply and others didn't pay attention to what I said (they seemingly can't comprehend English) and gave me a completely irrelevant answer. Others gave a simple response which didn't really answer the question.
One company has been pretty responsive and I've been having a back and forth with them. They suggested based on my needs two mattresses that I was actually already considering.
I asked them various questions including information on the foam. They tried to resist at first but because of the wording they chose to use I was able to ask them to tell me the specifics as per what I was told by their agent.
Since they don't normally give the information away I think it's only fair to respect that they don't want it shared, even though I disagree with it in general. Consumers have the option to grill the company just like I have in order to get this information for themselves. For that reason, I'm being careful not to expose the company's brand name.
With that said, not only is this company doing a good job actually speaking English and following up with my concerns, but they're doing it the best out of any of the companies who I've contacted so far. They did answer the question on their foam(s).
They told me 4.4 lbs per cubic foot and 18 ILD. I asked them which foam they're referring to and was told they're talking about the top-most layer (excluding quilt of course), the latex foam. The thing is, they have Latex, Gel memory and other foams.
UPDATE: They got back to me with the specs on all other materials. All OTHER foams are 1.8 pounds per cubic feet in density. So 4.4 lbs/cubic feet for the latex foam and 1.8 lbs/cubic feet for the gel memory foam and other foams.
For one of the beds I'm considering it's a 10" with 5.5" springs, 1.5" gel memory foam, 1" latex foam and 2" of other foam. It also has edge support foam.
I was told that they don't have the information on-hand regarding the specs on the other foams, only the latex. They said they would get back to me on that (along with another question I had related to the return policy).
So I guess for one my point of this reply is to encourage people to pressure companies. Be polite but be firm and pay close attention to the wording you use and the wording they use so you can catch them in a logic loop if they deny a request and sort of "pressure" them into telling you information.
My second reason is I'm hoping with this information someone might be able to make some presumptions based on the data I DO have about the quality and worthiness of the bed for someone of >30 BMI. Keep in mind I have a tight budget constraint here along with a 10 year old, used when I got it, 6" innerspring with sags and springs poking through the mattress on both sides.